Cycling on the moon with Marge and Homer

Lauca national park was a real treat. Through our hostel’s manager’s friend of a friend of a friend type of thing, we managed to meet a cheap tour guide who gave us a great run for our money. We climbed up to over 4,500 meters above sea level to discover some stunning flora and fauna, snow dusted volcanoes, remote hotsprings and sparkling lakes. Feared the sodding ´soroche´(altitude sickness) would come back with a vengeance but NO! what a relief…

Back down on the coast we spent a couple of days relaxing in a French-Chilean owned hostel. Got to speak the linguo a bit in this fab little oasis. The film ´Birdcage´ sprang to mind when watching Jon sleeping in the pinkest room ever seen, pink walls, shower, towels, soaps…

You won’t be surprised to read that neither of us was looking forward to the next long 12 hour bus ride to St Pedro de Atacama, still in Northern Chile. The town is near the north end of the Atacama desert and on route to Argentina. Bus journey was pure luxury compared to our previous experiences - glad we are doing it this way round!

St Pedro de Acatama is a strange delight of luxury mod coms, hip hostels in the middle of this barmy, deserted landscape. A great town to kick back, where siestas last from 2 to 5 and the sky is constantly blue. Took a couple of mountain bikes out to the Death valley and Moon valleys. The later, so they say!, is as close to what the surface of the moon looks like… no animals, no fauna, nothing, not a fly, just mystical rolling sand dunes and stones. Two massive alsatians decided to join us on the trip, probably looked at us and thought, ummmm fresh meat for dinner...they won´t last the journey... we named them Marge and Homer!
Also woke up at silly morning hour (4am!!) to see the El Tatio Geysers(smoky holes in the ground puffing sulphur) – greatest moment about that was gazing at the star-ridden desert sky.

So tomorrow we head off outta here baby, enough of the desert, bring on the lush vineyards of Salta and Cafayate in Argentina´s North west, time to indulge in life´s great pleasure, drinking wine.

Heh there travellers.....

Hello - just a quick note to say I have managed to get myself onto your blog ;-) Thanks for the link Magali.

The weather here is utterly miserable - we had gusts of 90 miles yesterday with torrential rain!! Not great when you are traveling on the motorway. All calm and blue skies this morning though.

Looking forward to hearing about your next ventures.

Love to both, Suki xx

Downpours to Desert...

Hi Paul - great to hear from you! Gald you had a good Christmas. Give Louis a kiss from us both & tell him he´ll have some more presents when we get back.

Puno as a town was a grower. Discovered a few really great places to eat and decent catering holes. Went on a tour of Lake Titicaca, visiting varouis islands before spending a night in a locals house on Isla Anamanti.

One of the islands visited was Uros, a flating island. Apparently made out of 3 meters of overlapping reeds. Communities aparently have lived there for centuries – and still do today, apparently. The young chap explaining the history and way of life was blatently wearing a Chelsea shirt under his alapaca pnoncho, had a solar panel next to his hut and his mobile phone went off during his talk. Makes you doubt the authenticity of their simple, unaltered way of life…

The night on Anamanti was fun, if not a tad rustic. Stayed with a family of 7. Thankfully had our own room. They are all rediculously short. The door frames were low enough for Magali to hit her head on. Which she did. She isn´t used to having to duck. I simply walked on my knees to avoid facial injury. We had three meals there, all consisted of soup with 12 different types of potato. All cooked on clay pots on wood fire mark 5.

Walked to the top of the island for views. Found the coolest footall pitch in the world. Perched right on the edge of the island, and even had a small stand. For those in the know it resembled Monoco´s ground. But on a much smaller scale. You just didn´t want to be a ball boy. We found out the match was a top of the table clash. Which also meant it was a relagation battle - as there are only two teams. The reds won. The blues were rubbish.

Decided to head to Chile, so headed south to Tacna. Actually had an untroubled bus journey - hooray! Didn´t like the town, so jumped staight in a cab to Arica just over the border. Which is where we are now. Its hot! Got too used to the afternoon torrential rain downpours in Peru.

Can immediately tell its a more affluent country. Are quite relieved at the vibrancy of this small town. Has the feel of an oasis. Standing in town and turning left is the sea, but right is desert. Looking forward to a couple of days on the beach before heading to Lauca Nacional Park.

alright bro,

Hope you both are having a great time down in south ameria. I don't know much about that part of the world but tequila, cigars and seem to feature in films. I'm sure there's a lot more on offer and look forward it hearing it and seeing the photos.

Any thoughts about the wedding yet - when / where? Really looking forward to it.

We are all fine and had a great Christmas in France and Louis misses you both a lot.

Speak to you soon,

Big G, Chantale & Louis.

Mountain hikes, Wonders of the world & possibly the worst bus journey in the world...

Hola!

We’re in Puno, right on Lake Titicaca, near the Peru / Bolivian border. Is a strange place, looks large from a distance, but small when you’re in it. Weird…

Left Lima for Cuzco on the 27th Dec. The previously mentioned 22 hrs bus journey didn’t turn out as planned. It took 34 hrs. Broke down: 5 hours to repair (stopped every 10 miles to top up water / oil before deciding to finally call a mechanic). Had an accident with a taxi: 2 hours inc. heated argument between bus / taxi driver & subsequent visit to police station for statements. Took unannounced detour to Arequipa: 5 hours – right pain in arse. Bus ran out of food: hungry. Developed altitude sickness: pounding headache as if head in vice. Arriving in comfy bed in middle of the night: timeless.

Despite above, Cuzco is fantastic. Picturesque Spanish colonial town. Only downside is 100% geared up for tourism. Is a vacuum which sucks money from tourists. As result decided not to go on Inca trail to Machu Picchu. Hired mountain bikes & did own thing visiting Inca ruins. 35 km ride from Cuzco to Pisac. First 5k uphill, took 1.5 hours. Needed a third lung as air so thin. Last 30k downhill took 30 mins – bliss!

Took train to Aguas Calientes, then bus to Machu Picchu. Didn’t quite know what to expect as it really is just a bunch of ruins, and have seen ruins before, right? It’s amazing. Fluked going on a gorgeous day as well. Decided to head up to the “sun gate”, a sedate 30 min walk. Took wrong turn and ended up hiking up to the top of the mountain – a 1.5 hr hike up a near vertical slope. Absolute killer. Needed that third lung again. Who the bloody hell build the path? Magali got vertigo. I looked like I’d jumped in a swimming pool. But made it! Spoilt with amazing panoramic views of Machu & Wayna Picchu.

Spent New Years in a small bar with a Peruvian band in Cuzco. Was hilarious. Had a real ensemble of instruments: electric / acoustic guitar, various panpipes, ukuleles etc. (anyone remember The Fast Show?). Kept on trying to play old school rock anthems. Didn’t quite sound right – but bloody entertaining! Drank two jugs of pisco sour. Only needed the one. Had craving for bacon so went to an Irish pub for a greasy spoon on New Years Day. Had the ultimate “breakfast in a bap”. It was about 12 inches high. Couldn’t work out why they didn’t just put the ingredients on a plate separately. But did the job anyway.

Half way through devouring the said sandwich, two woman came into the pub. They were dressed provocatively, had more cosmetic surgery than Michael Jackson and were about 50. In response to the entrance of the trollops, I asked Magali “What to you call an old sheep? To which she responded, “A goat?”. Had been a long night.

Going island hopping on Lake Titicaca & staying overnight with a family on Isla Amantani. Should be an experience…